Saturday, February 24, 2018

AT THE KOALA SANCTUARY IN BRISBANE

Yesterday, we were diverted from our normal course and the ship had to go into Plan B for the various excursions.  The ones we had chosen were no longer possible, so we decided to go to the Koala Sanctuary which is outside of Brisbane.  The route was to go to the Sanctuary and then come back through Brisbane catching its highlights and getting a brief feel for what kind of city it is.  Here are a few photos from the Sanctuary.



I guess the Koalas were the original Teddy Bears.  When Koalas are born they are the size of a jelly bean and live in Mama' pouch facing down, where they stay for about ten months before they are able to live on their own.


They sleep up to 18 hours a day and will only eat certain types of eucalyptus which don't have a lot of nutritional value.  Between that and their natural predators their life expectancy is pretty low.  But these guys in the sancturary are protected at least.  The only predators are the human kind who stand in endless lines waiting to hold one and have their photo taken with the cuddly creature.  We decided to forego the privilege.


We got to feed the kangaroos instead who are surprisingly gentle and friendly.  Obviously, this group is probably way overfed and so most of them had no interest in our purchased food, but when they do eat it, they eat daintily out of your hand and have the softest snouts.   They aren't the least bit aggressive or greedy.


They are very content kangas.

These lizards were about two feet long and hanging out in the parking lot of the koala sanctuary.  En garde!  I challenge you, sir,  to a duel!


And a fight to the death.


Well, maybe not.  Kiss me, you fool!


This is not at the Koala Sanctuary, but at Moreton Island where we are docked today.  The beach is full of cormorants and pelicans and here are two of the big guys making it clear who's boss.


A word about Brisbane.  When we boarded the bus to go to the Koala Sanctuary, we drove through Brisbane and it didn't look like much of a city although it is the third largest port after Sydney and Melbourne.  We passed grain terminals, huge piles of sawdust, asphalt and scrap metal (identified by the guide) and it looked like a mostly industrialized city.  Silver, lead, zinc natural gas and even opals are all mined near Brisbane.  We passed several of the sixteen bridges which span the Brisbane River which snakes its way through the city.  And we did see some beautiful homes with distinctive architecture that belong to the descendants of early Queenslanders.  

The early settlers of Brisbane, besides the aboriginals who had been there for some forty million years, were a convict colony who had been thrown out of Sydney and then Tasmania until they finally made their way to Brisbane.  

After our visit to the sanctuary, we were driven through the main parts of the city.  What a difference!  There are miles of restaurants and outdoor cafes with lovely parks, huge ultra-modern skyscrapers lost in the clouds and the sixteen bridges, each with its own distinctive style and personality. Though it was a Saturday afternoon, people were on the street enjoying themselves, hanging out in the cafes and I'll bet the night scene is something to behold.  A few of our coachmates chose to stay in the city for the evening and take the provided shuttle back to the ship, but Tom and I were afraid we'd never be seen again, and so we didn't get to explore on our own.  I regret that we didn't see more of it because I think it could hold its own against Sydney if given a chance.  Here are a couple of pictures, not very good ones, the skies were gray and snapping photos out of the bus window not very satisfactory.



Friday, February 23, 2018

OUR SECOND DAY ABOARD THE SEABOURN ENCORE

The Corso, the main shopping street in Manly Beach where we went by ferry our final day in Sydney.
An artist with his dog at Manly Beach.

Crossing under the Harbor Bridge as we leave Sydney.  Can you see the people on the very top left?  Somehow walking across the top of the bridge doesn't sound fun to me.  Especially if it's windy which it probably always is.
Leaving Sydney...

View from the restaurant aboard the ship. This is one of the Northern suburbs, but probably still has a Sydney address.  Sydney's four million people are quite spread out.




Mother Nature is not cooperating.  We are only on the second day of the cruise and already the two tours we signed up for have been canceled and our route has been changed.  But we shall roll with the waves and bravely soldier on. 

Yesterday, after our lovely drink with Cathy and Dan and friends, we had a quick lunch and repaired to the ship.  The check-in was remarkably hassle-free, we were greeted with champagne and a small dab of caviar and proceeded to work our way through the various literature and instructional materials strewn about the room.  The mandatory safety drill held no surprises and for dinner we decided to eat in the more casual restaurant rather than in the main dining room.  We had a delicious dinner of sashimi and lamb chops outside on the deck while watching the sunset with Sydney and its vast suburbs receding in the distance.  

Today was a scheduled day at sea on the way to Mooloolaba, a beach destination an hour or two from Brisbane referred to as “The Sunshine Coast”.  The area is known for its mangroves, whispering pines and hibiscus as well as all varieties of waterfowl like cormorants, spoonbills and ibis.  Various excursions were available but rather than explore the city of Brisbane or kayak down a river estuary, we decided to walk through the little beach towns of Eumundi and Noosa with their fresh food stalls and arts and crafts markets.   I read that Noosa also has a waterfront precinct with winding lanes,
al fresco cafes and fun boutiques, surrounded by spectacular beaches.  And a national park within easy walking distance.  All wonderful and attainable by coach.

The tour was canceled.  Unbelievably, no one else had signed up!  But not to worry, we were told, we could do an abbreviated version which still included the waterfront area and the park.  That was our plan last night.

Today, to while away the day at sea, we joined a trivia team (8 or 10 of us collaborating on impossibly obscure questions on every subject) and competed dismally against the other seven or eight teams.  We called ourselves the Brainiacs and had some good laughs with our teammates from Canada, Denmark and Florida.  Next sea day we will meet again and try to do better. 

Then we had lunch at the fabulous sushi restaurant and went to a lecture about the early days of Australia.  Did you know that camels were brought here from British India and Afghanistan as pack animals before the steam engine was developed because they could transport goods where horses could not?  But after trains and trucks became widely used, many of the camels were simply abandoned and now they run wild through the outback—seven million of them according to Col. McCormack, our worthy lecturer, and are projected to double every few years if left unchecked!  Feral pigs, rabbits, dingos, cats and even goats are environmental crises as well.  But the camels are especially troublesome because they drink huge quantities of water in addition to munching their way through everything green.  They are destroying farms and ranches throughout Australia.   And we thought the Australian jellyfish were their biggest problem!

When we returned to the room after the lecture, the captain made an announcement.  We would not be docking in Mooloolaba after all because the winds were too brisk, the tenders impossible to navigate, and since Brisbane was already full with previously scheduled cruise ships we would be going to someplace called Fisherman's Island some distance from Brisbane (and I gather nowhere near Mooloolaba) and further information would be pending.

No further info through dinner.  And so to bed.  We shall see what the morrow will bring.  Who cares, we're lovin' it.  

Tuesday, February 20, 2018

A NIGHT AT THE OPERA


For a non-opera person like me to describe Bizet’s Carmen is a fool’s errand.  All the terminology will be wrong--I’m not sure I know a mezzo-soprano from a contralto or a tenor from a baritone.  Not having ever seen a production of Carmen performed as the composer originally intended it, I can only guess at the license taken by the director of this version.  I know the original was set in Seville, Spain (a country where Bizet had never traveled) and this one definitely had a Cuban quality to it with the Army grunts resembling Che Guevara in camouflage and the set design looking like a crumbling Havana square replete with a 1950’s jalopy. But those caveats aside, let me try to describe our experience at the Sydney Opera House.

Our seats were perfect—sixth row left but in full view of the entire stage and portions of the orchestra.  We arrived in plenty of time, purchased a glass of wine and went out on the deck to people watch and marvel at the building and the surrounding harbor.  An Asian couple had brought their two small children, little boys of about three and four, who could have been the poster children for Ritalin and both were having uncontrollable melt-downs both outside the building and inside.  Neither the mother nor the father could control them as they ran around like whirling dervishes.  We were horrified that anyone would bring little kids to an opera and took refuge behind the bar where we met a Danish couple, also shocked at the spectacle, and they wondered if any of us would be unlucky enough to be seated near these little hellions. We struck up a lovely conversation with this most interesting couple who had sold their house a couple of years ago, bought a sailboat and lived on it for two years before selling it and coming to Australia.  We chatted until showtime and miraculously there were no noisy children once the production began.  Perhaps they were asked to leave...

The theatre itself, the Joan Sutherland, on the main level of the Opera House, is reminiscent of a West End theatre, all merlot-colored velvet curtains, ornate loges and an Orchestra pit with full orchestra.  Intimate but not too small.  Carmen was sung and spoken in the original French, with translations into Chinese and English subtly placed on small screens along the periphery of the theatre.  After struggling for a while to watch the action, while keeping up with the text, I made the decision to concentrate on the production rather than on reading the translations.  Of course no photos were allowed, thus description based on memory is my only tool. 

The sets and lighting are Broadway quality, and the colorful and exotic costumes are updated to modern times with even a cell phone and a selfie thrown in to make the point.  There is definitely a Cubanesque aura although the Spanish influence is also clear.

The opening scene introduces us to our hero Don Jose, a naive young soldier who has run away from his mother and girlfriend to join the Army in a fit of pique after an argument.  We are soon introduced to the girlfriend, dressed modestly in trench coat and sensible shoes who begs him to come home and delivers a letter from his mother saying all is forgiven.  Oh by the way, Mama is sick, she tells Don Jose, delivering the ultimate guilt trip in her efforts to lure him back, not so much to Mama, but to her.  But Don Jose has already met the beautiful and sultry gypsy Carmen who gives him a flower and he is immediately in love with the wrong woman.  Carmen and her coterie of gypsy friends, a group of zoot-suited smugglers carrying unnamed contraband combine with the soldiers to produce a colorful and eclectic set.

The somewhat complicated plot progresses through its inevitable conclusion where Carmen lures Don Jose away from the Army to “freedom” but soon loses interest when the handsome Toreador  comes on the scene.  The Toreador song (Oh Flora-dora, don’t spit on the floor-a...) was worth the price of admission and I couldn’t help quaking and giggling with delight during it.  I noticed that the man next to me had the same reaction.  I wanted to ask him if he knew the Floradora parody, but I don’t think he spoke English and anyway it would have exposed me as the dilettante that I am.

Although Carmen ends in tragedy when Don Jose stabs her in response to her derisive rejection of him, the comedic aspects of it were always paramount.  A troop of very talented young boys had singing and dancing parts and made us laugh at their gymnastic flips and headstands all the while singing in French. The choreography of the show was astounding—Broadway quality—and again I wonder if Bizet wrote that into his original plan. 

The costuming is glorious--colorful flamenco style dresses, and suits for the men in every hue.  My favorite was the shiny red one worn by Escamillo, the Toreador, when he wasn’t wearing his bullfighting garb.  The zoot suit look worn by the smugglers contrasts effectively with the Castro Army drab of the soldiers.

Passion, drama, comedy, tragedy, shock, tenderness, are all present in this extravagant production.  I came away with all expectations exceeded and maybe we will take up opera back in Dallas.

Afterwards we meandered slowly back to the hotel with fireworks to serenade us and the Chinese New Year blow-ups brilliantly aglow.

This is the Year of the Dog who holds the place of honor in front of the Opera House.

Inside the Joan Sutherland Theatre

This is from the playbill but it will give you some idea of the colorful costumes.  Don Escamillo, the bullfighter.
Fireworks after the opera!

Everything looks more enchanting at night.




Monday, February 19, 2018

FOR MY WRITING FRIENDS...

Periodically along Circular Quay, bronze plaques are embedded in the walkway.   I remembered noticing them the last time we were here and so I looked up their purpose.  They are a series of 22 plaques honoring important Australian authors and a few non-Australians who had special ties to Australia such as D.H. Lawrence, Mark Twain and Rudyard Kipling.  Each plaque has the writer's name, a few details and a brief excerpt of his/her writing.  You can't help but notice them.  Here is the first one.

OUR FIRST DAY IN SYDNEY


 SPECTACULAR CIRCULAR QUAY

Six years ago we walked down the hill from our hotel with no pre-conceived idea of what was “down by the water” and suddenly the Sydney Opera House revealed itself in all its heart-stopping glory. I will never forget that moment.  Pictures do not do it justice.  It is simply spectacular.  In 1957, the relatively unknown Danish architect, Jorn Utzon (the O in Jorn has one of those charming no-no lines through it when written in Danish), won in a competition of 233 designs from 32 countries and was catapulted to forever fame in the field of architecture.  The fourteen shells of the building, if collapsed and re-assembled would form a perfect sphere.  There was a lot of controversy about the design though and the building was not completed until 1973.  If you would like to read the very interesting story of Utzon and his Opera House, you can find it here.  Tonight we go there to see the opera Carmen.  I'm weak with anticipation.


The view from our hotel window of the harbor, Harbor Bridge on Left, the cruise ship Sun Princess about to leave, and the Sydney Opera House.

The Sun Princess playing second fiddle to the Opera House.